Far from the postcards of the coast, the town of Spinazzola, in the inland Murgia area of Puglia, hosts a festival that tastes of the land itself. The 27th edition of the Sagra del Fungo Cardoncello turns the historic centre into an open-air table where food, traditions and culture meet.
A mushroom with a loyal following
The cardoncello is the star of the show, and here it gets the respect it deserves. Its firm, meaty stem and delicate, earthy flavour make it a symbol of Murgia cooking.
Locals know it well, and a festival dedicated to it is always a proud moment for the community. Expect to hear plenty of opinions on the "right" way to cook it.
Wandering the centro storico with a plate in hand
The setting is half the pleasure. Narrow lanes and old stone façades become the backdrop for stalls, food stands and the easy chatter of a sagra.
Walk slowly, follow your nose and let the smell of grilled mushrooms guide you. This is a festival best enjoyed on foot, tasting as you go.
- Grilled cardoncelli with a drizzle of local olive oil
- Hearty inland dishes where the mushroom meets pasta, meat or bread
- Local wine and conversation shared at crowded tables
- Traditions and cultural moments that give the evening its character
Tips for enjoying it like a local
Arrive in the early evening, when the lights come on and the old town fills up. The atmosphere is warm, relaxed and welcoming, so there is no need to rush.
Bring a good appetite and a sense of curiosity. Ask the people behind the stands what they recommend; they are usually happy to tell you how a dish is made.
The festival is easygoing and free to wander, which makes it a pleasant outing for couples, friends, solo travellers and families with children alike.
Make a day of the Murgia
Spinazzola sits close to the wide, open landscapes of the Alta Murgia National Park, a good excuse to explore before the evening feast. Pastures, dry-stone walls and big skies set the scene for the flavours you will taste later.
In town, look up to the Garagnone castle area and wander the lanes before dinner. Nearby Murgia towns such as Gravina in Puglia and Minervino Murge also reward a longer inland itinerary.
Why it stays with you
What makes this festival special is its honesty. There is no staged spectacle, just a town celebrating a humble ingredient with real pride.
If you want to taste Puglia away from the beach crowds, this is a delicious place to start. Come to Spinazzola for the mushrooms, and stay for the company.